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Archive for March, 2009

I tasted a lot of good dessert wines at the recent Salon des vins de Québec, Quebec City’s first-ever large-scale wine fair. Some great Sauternes and Barsac, a terrific Recioto del Soave by Pieropan, and some nice ice wine.

But for this first post on The Tawny Times, I figured I would taste outside the box. Which is easy enough, when you get to taste a dessert wine made from 100% Spanish Merlot.

That’s right. A late harvest merlot from Pago del Vicario, a winery founded in 2000 near Ciudad Real, in Central Spain. Susana López Mendiondo, the winemaker, who trained with Peter Sisseck, of Pingus fame, makes a point of making non-traditional wines, it seems, as a solid rosado made from 100% petit verdot clearly demonstrates.

The 2004 Merlot Dulce tasted like a light, fresh young port, without the touriga nacional (and co.) character. A bit of spice, but mostly a lot of ripe, fresh fruit, good length and just a lot of yumminess. At 14.5% alcohol, it’s less alcoholic than a lot of “dry” California and Aussie reds, but without the heaviness.

Besides drinking it with great pleasure, I’d love to pour it over vanilla ice cream, or, why not, even make an ice cream flavored with it. Truly lovely stuff.

Here’s a link to PDF format tasting notes on the Dulce. Enjoy!

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Covey Run Semillion Icewine

The grapes used in the production of this delicious icewine actually began growing in the 2004 season. The grapes were left to hang on the vines until the temperatures dropped below freezing and the grapes were good and frozen. They were picked on January 5, 2005 in the middle of the night. I’m sure there were many frozen finger after that night.  Although the grapes were a product of the 2004 growing season, federal government regulations require that the wine be labeled with a 2005 vintage date, as that is the year the grapes were actually harvested. The grapes were then pressed, while still frozen–hence Icewine.

The color is deep golden with a hint of copper. The appearance would suggest a certain weight in body, and there is some but it isn’t heavy. The wine exhibits floral aromas of honeysuckle and roses, with peach, apricot, candied pineapple, and a hint of vanilla oak. Flavors are more citrus on the palate with grapefruit and candied orange. Crisp, bracing acidity with a long, lingering finish. Refreshing and delicious.

Appellation: Yakima Valley

Blend: 100% Semillion

Vineyard: 100% Phil Church

Cases Produced: 920

Bottle Size: 375ml

Suggested Retail Price: $20

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